MB Spares - Mercedes-Benz Specialists

1959 220s W180
Mercedes-Benz Club New South Wales - Australia
August 01, 2010, 12:02:11 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: This Forum is "wireless" friendly and can be used through mobile phones.
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: 1959 220s W180  (Read 2340 times)
gtl1955
Provisional
*
Posts: 6


View Profile
« on: October 19, 2009, 09:34:18 PM »

This is my first posting - I hope someone will be able to provide a bit of advice to a rank novice. My friend has the above vehicle that has been stored outside under a tarp for approximately 15 years (yep this is for real). I have tried for many years for him to get it in doors with no success until very recently. He has agreed for me to have a look at the car and see if I can ascertain its rust level and see what it might take to get going. I must point out here that my knowledge of Mercedes vehicles is zero. My queries is this - where do I start? I plan to get the vehicle to my place and get it into my garage. This will involve a new set of tyres and a check to see that it can be winched onto a car trailer. Next I was planning to turn the motor over to see if it will start. Is this wise? The car was operational when it was covered all those years ago but hasn't been started for a very long time. So can someone give me a bit of advice please. thank you very much from Greg, Canberra
« Last Edit: October 19, 2009, 09:35:59 PM by gtl1955 » Logged
John Skene
Club Official
Speedster
**
Posts: 1,098


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2009, 08:45:48 AM »

As you are in Canberra have a talk to John Green @ MB Spares, he may be able to organise for the car to be picked up safely. However 15 years in the open under a tarp does not sound good, check it for rust before you do anything else, there is a very good chance it may not be worthwhile moving.
Logged
gtl1955
Provisional
*
Posts: 6


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2009, 07:56:13 AM »

Thank you very much John. I will have a close look over the car this weekend and depending upon the outcome I will contact MB Spares about the next steps. Greg
Logged
gtl1955
Provisional
*
Posts: 6


View Profile
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2009, 08:03:03 AM »

I have now had a look at the car and I think it is in reasonable condition and worth further restoration. Until I get it into my garage and cleaned up a bit I really won't know the extent of the rust especially. I have a very simple question. Due to the position of where the car is currently parked I was not able to get access to enable me to release the bonnet latch. Can some one tell me where the interior bonnet release is located? I founds two levers just under the left hand side near the glove box but neither would move at all. One had a round knob and the other a handle type grip. Is  either the release mechanism? thanks again Greg
Logged
Michel
NSW Club Member
Racer
*
Posts: 908


Location: Sydney

View Profile
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2009, 05:51:33 PM »

I have now had a look at the car and I think it is in reasonable condition and worth further restoration. Until I get it into my garage and cleaned up a bit I really won't know the extent of the rust especially. I have a very simple question. Due to the position of where the car is currently parked I was not able to get access to enable me to release the bonnet latch. Can some one tell me where the interior bonnet release is located? I founds two levers just under the left hand side near the glove box but neither would move at all. One had a round knob and the other a handle type grip. Is  either the release mechanism? thanks again Greg

It is the 'handle' type grip.

Alas it probably is a bit 'frozen'.
It might need a bit of persuasion , lots of WD40 and a bit of praying too...
Logged

Michel

W116 1978 690SEL # 3312
W123 1978 280CE -- FOR SALE
Ron B.
Provisional
*
Posts: 11


View Profile
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2009, 04:41:34 PM »

The other knob is the fuel reserve . i suggest byou don't try and start it but drop the tank and reove the carb and fuel pump. Clean them all out so they are spotless .I have found that cutting the tank open and cleaning it is the only way to get them really clean. The pump may need a kit as will the carb/carbs. They are notorious for hard starting if ther fuel tank connections are crappy so ensure you are realy fussy about getting them sorted properly.
 Replace the plugs,points,leads and cap . Caps etc are cheap enough on line and the best bet is the pertronix ignitor for getting rid of annoying points problems. Dump the old oil and filter and replace them and pour a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% brake cfluid down each plug hole. let it soak for a few days before trying to turn it over. Check that the water pump turns,it will probably be seized but they can be stripped and rebearinged etc.
Set the tappets and make the sure the chain isn't too loose and you should be ready to fire it up.
Mine sat for 30 years and ran like a top when I fired it up recently ,not too badly at all either with no blow by or knocks and idled nicely .I even took the carb off it gave it to mate  who is running it on his 1953 220 .

These are mercedes after all  Wink

Now for real advice from those of us who not only drive these as daily drivers and fool about with them constantly you should sign up with the IPOG on yahoo groups. While not trying to put down a certain ACT company,their price structure sucks and many of the IPOG members can supply genny parts far cheaper and lots of sound advice based on experience without attitude.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ponton/
Logged
gtl1955
Provisional
*
Posts: 6


View Profile
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2009, 07:24:54 AM »

Michel and Ron - thanks so much for this great advice. I will do as advised and let you know how I get on. The first thing I need to do is to get the car out of its current location so that I can work on it. Greg
Logged
John Skene
Club Official
Speedster
**
Posts: 1,098


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2009, 09:11:54 AM »

Brake fluid and acetone, that's a new one for me. I have used ATF before, also a mixture of Penetrene and engine oil, but never have I tried (or even thought about) brake fluid.

Normal brake fluid is hydoscopic, so assuming that the acetone evaporates off, surely that leaves  a coating of water holding brake fluid sitting on top of the piston ring, between the piston and the cylinder wall. You have me intrigued as to how this mixture actually works to free up the engine / rings.
Logged
gtl1955
Provisional
*
Posts: 6


View Profile
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2010, 09:04:59 AM »

I have now had a bit of a look at the car eventhough there is a long way to go in assessing the condition, it looks in fair condition considering. All original parts are still in place. There is rust in both the floor panels. Rest of the car looks OK. On an initial inspection it looks repairable but I really need to find out how extensive it is. I have a couple of additional questions though:

1. Owner appears to have lost the keys to the vehicle. Any suggestions on how I might get new keys?
2. What type of battery is needed for this type of vehicle. Any brand suggestions?
3. What type of spack plugs are needs? Again, any brand suggestions?

thanks very much  Greg

PS I have just realised that this post should probably be in the Tech Talk part of the forum. Sorry I will fix this problem.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2010, 09:12:29 AM by gtl1955 » Logged
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC